Time for the last clue! Photo contests submissions are due by May 22. Make sure you submit them in the right place! Prizes will be announced later that week.
Useful links:
- Clue #1 (includes abbreviations)
- Clue #2 (includes new abbreviations)
- Clue #3 (includes any new abbreviations)
- Photo Contest + General FAQ
- Basic information
Abbreviations
m1 – make one
dd – double decrease. sl 1, k2tog, pass slipped st over
NOTES
Begin with 330 sts after working Clue #3.
There seems to be some confusion with regards to the stitch count for Clue #3. 330 stitches is what I and my tech editors/sample knitters had at the end of the clue. I haven’t been able to track down the errors in the pattern that are causing people to get different stitch counts. If you don’t have 330 stitches, add the number of stitches you need to get there on the first row of the pattern or take them out. Nobody should be more than 5 stitches or so off. There is a little bit of wiggle room built into these last few rows since they are only garter stitch and double decreases.
If you knit the special instructions for people with less than 400 yards, I don’t have stitch counts for you yet. Everyone who had less than 400 yards seems to have gone a different path in terms of repeats, so I can’t possibly calculate all of the permutations. You are partially on your own for Clue #4, but only partially. If you followed the special instructions for less than 400 yards, you will need to have the proper multiple of stitches to make the edging work. The edging only exists to add points to the shawl, so don’t worry if you’re off by a bit. As long as it looks good to you, you’re ok. The stitch pattern used is a multiple of 12 sts, plus extra stitches along the edging.
Working the edging with a different number of stitches
If you want to make the edging work with a different number of stitches, the points are a multiple of 12 (plus 3 edge stitches on each side). The number of stitches along the edge are negotiable, and you can also adjust the number of stitches in between the double decreases.
There is only one official option for Clue #4. If you want to add more repeat of clue #3 or extend clue #4, you can, but that’s at your discretion and I can’t help you out with that.
These instructions are for the standard edging. This is it! The final clue. There’s nothing else coming at you until the premium version of the pattern is released (includes row-by-row and section stitch counts not available in the KAL).
Instructions: Edging (begin with 330 stitches)
Row 1 (RS): k2, remove m, k1, [k4, m1, dd, m1, k5] 27x, k1, remove m, k2
If you get tired of counting, repeat [k4, m1, dd, m1, k5] to the last 3 sts before the end of the needle (remember you’re removing the marker the first time you do it)
Row 2: k all sts
Row 3: repeat row 1
If you have extra yarn, you can continue to repeat rows 2-3. You’ll get more exaggerated points.
Bind off as follows: ssk, *[sl 1 st on right needle, k 2 sts together as if to ssk], rpt from * to end
To block out the shawl, pin out the double decrease points. They won’t be exaggerated: they will instead create a mild point that you can adjust at your discretion. Because of the very open lace featured in clue #3, you could theoretically) exaggerate these points with a more thorough blocking job. That’s 100% up to you. My shawl has very mild points, sort of like One Million Eye(let)s.
See the Ravelry group for tips and tricks for different stitch counts! Or read below:
I realize not everyone has a Ravelry account (although you should, if anything it’s a great resource), so I’ve pasted the info from the forums here for you to use.
If you don’t have 330 stitches, here’s my advice (pick one or multiple):
- Increase/decrease to get 330 on the first row (you’re not adding new stitches at this point anymore)
- If you’re off by only a few stitches (some people have 328) you will be AOK (see below)
- Adjust the stitch pattern slightly: it’s a multiple of 12 + 3 edge stitches on each side (so 12 + 6).
Tips for adjusting the edging to work with your stitch count
- If you have an odd number of stitches, simply k2tog at the beginning or end of your row or increase 1 (depending on your stitch count). Once you have an even number of stitches, use the info below to help you out.
- If you have 328 stitches, you would work: k2, (pattern) 27x, k2.
- If you have 326 stitches, you’ll need to increase 2 (I’d recommend increasing in the pattern the first and last time it is worked rather than kfb’ing the border stitches or something).
- If you have more than 330 add extra stitches along the edging before and after the pattern unless you are closer to another multiple of 12.
- If you have less than 330, the next multiple for 12 stitches is 312 (12×26). Meaning if you have 320 (320-312=8 extra), you could work k4 before the pattern and k4 after (please note that this includes the 2 border stitches!).
Feel free to post your tips and tricks for adjusting the edging to work for you.
If you have extra yardage, there are instructions in the blog to continue. The info in this post will also help you adjust if you do additional repeats of clue #3.
Multiples of 12 (without any extra edge stitches!)
300
312
324
348
360
372
384
396
If you go higher than 396, whoaaa. You craaazy.
I hope that helps!
Welcome to feministy.com, the website of designer Liz Abinante. I like to design fashionable knitwear garments and accessories for women. I'm best known for my original shawl pattern, Traveling Woman. I try to design each pattern with multiple options so knitters can use a different yarn, gauge, or needle to create the project of their dreams. I love to

I mean, really? Does anyone ever have molasses in their house? I don't always, but I do love ginger snaps. Make some tasty
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{ 4 comments… read them below or add one }
thanks so much Liz – so worth waiting for! thanks for all your work doing this KAL!
Thank you for sharing this design – especially during such a busy time in your life!
Thanks for the clue! I’m excited to see this all finished.
I’m doing this in my spare time (sic) so who knows when it will be finished, but just out of curiosity, is the “cable” not really a cable (like, twisted) but just a squiggle on top of an opposite squiggle? This doesn’t seem right, but somewhere I think you say that it is. Not that I’m going to change it now, I’m just curious. Where can we see the finished product?