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Roxanne Mystery Shawl

The pattern is comprised of 4 clues. Read through each clue thoroughly before beginning to ensure that you are aware of all of the corrections and warnings.

Things you’ll need:
fingering, approximately 430 yards. (You’ll need 410-420 yards. 400 yards won’t cut it, but I am including instructions for those who wish to use a 400 yard skein)
Yarn used
Little Red Bicycle Hispter Sock (80% superwash merino, 20% nylon) in Ethereal. Shown above.
US #5 3.75mm needle, circular preferred at least 24″ (or whatever needle you need to get gauge)
20 sts/29 rows, per 4 inches in stockinette stitch
6 stitch markers, cable needle (optional)
garter tab shawl start, familiarity with shawl construction, ability to do cables, lace, and textured stitch patterns (you never know what the pattern will include!)
cast on
pick up
place marker
slip marker
slip, slip, knit (left leaning decrease)
knit 2 together (right leaning decrease)
pick up horizontal bar between stitches from front to back and place on left needle, knit through the back loop (left leaning increase)
yarn over
knit through the front and back loop
purl through the front and back loop

CO 4 sts. k 6 rows. On last row, do not turn work. Rotate work 90 degrees clockwise and pu 6 sts along the edge and cast on of the work – 10 sts total.

Row 1 (RS)
k2, pm, p2, pm, k2, pm, p2, pm, k2
Row 2
k2, slm, yo, k2, slm, kfb, k1, m1l, slm, k2, yo, slm, k2
Row 3
k2, slm, p3, slm, pfb, p3, slm, p3, slm, k2
Row 4
k2, slm, yo, k2, kfb, slm, (k1, m1l) 4x, k1, slm, kfb, k2, yo, slm, k2
Row 5
k2, slm, p1, pfb, p3, slm, p9, slm, p3, pfb, p1, slm, k2

25 sts total. Your next row should be a RS row.

Body Set-Up

Work the following table once.

There is an error in Row 1. See below table for correction.

Row 1 correction: k2, slm, yo, k1, ssk, m1l, p2, k1, yo, slm, k3, m1l, k1, yo, k5, slm, yo, k1, ssk, m1l, p2, k1, yo, slm, k2

45 sts total, separated by markers as follows: 2 – 12 – 6 – 5 – 6 – 12 – 2

New Abbreviations
cable needle
sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in back, k3, k3 from cn.
sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in front, k3, k3 from cn.

Begin with 45 sts from Clue 1.

Body Repeat

Work the following table 4 times total.

Just a heads up: the cables in this table are supposed to be different.

Stitch increases, per row

If a row is not present, it does not add any new stitches.

Rows 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11 (RS)
+ 6
Rows 6, 12 (WS)
+ 4

+44 sts each repeat

Per repeat stitch counts
Repeat 1
Repeat 2
Repeat 3
Repeat 4

End with 221 sts.

If you have 400 yards or less...

Option 1: work the Transition chart, skip Body part 1, work Body part 2.

Option 2: work the Transition chart, work Body part 1, work fewer repeats of Body part 2.

Begin with 221 sts from Clue 2.


Work table once.

There is an error in Row 7. See below table for correction.

Row 7 is missing a yarn over before the second marker. Work border and edge stitches for Row 7 as you did for Row 5.

Body, Part 1

Work table once.

Cables in Row 7 should be C6F, then C6B.

Row 4 and 10 — First Edge Section should read: k2, [yo, k2tog] to 2 sts before m, k2, slm.

Row 5 and 11 — First Edge Section should read: k2, yo, k1, [yo, k2tog] to 3 sts before m, k1, yo, k2, yo, slm.

Body, Part 2
Row 1 (RS)
k2, slm, yo, [k to m, remove m] 4x, k to m, yo, slm, k2
Row 2 (WS)
k2, slm, k to m, slm, k2
Row 3
k2, slm, yo, k to m, yo, slm, k2
Row 4
k2, slm, k to m, slm, k2

Work table 3 times.

End with 330 sts.

New Abbreviations
make one
double decrease. sl 1, k2tog, pass slipped st over

Begin with 330 sts after working Clue 3.

See below if you do not have 330 sts.

Row 1 (RS)
k2, remove m, k1, [k4, m1, dd, m1, k5] 27x, k1, remove m, k2.
If you get tired of counting, repeat [k4, m1, dd, m1, k5] to the last 3 sts before the end of the needle (remember you’re removing the marker the first time you do it).
Row 2
k all sts.
Row 3
As Row 1.

If you have extra yarn, you can continue to repeat rows 2-3. You’ll get more exaggerated points.

Bind off as follows: ssk, *[sl 1 st on right needle, k 2 sts together as if to ssk], rpt from * to end

Help! I don't have 330 stitches!

There seems to be some confusion with regards to the stitch count for Clue 3. 330 stitches is what I and my tech editors/sample knitters had at the end of the clue. I haven’t been able to track down the errors in the pattern that are causing people to get different stitch counts. If you don’t have 330 stitches, add the number of stitches you need to get there on the first row of the pattern or take them out. Nobody should be more than 5 stitches or so off.

If you knit the special instructions for people with less than 400 yards, I don’t have stitch counts for you yet. Everyone who had less than 400 yards seems to have gone a different path in terms of repeats, so I can’t possibly calculate all of the permutations. You are partially on your own for Clue #4, but only partially. If you followed the special instructions for less than 400 yards, you will need to have the proper multiple of stitches to make the edging work. The edging only exists to add points to the shawl, so don’t worry if you’re off by a bit. As long as it looks good to you, you’re ok. The stitch pattern used is a multiple of 12 sts, plus extra stitches along the edging.

Working the edging with a different number of stitches

If you want to make the edging work with a different number of stitches, the points are a multiple of 12 (plus 3 edge stitches on each side). The number of stitches along the edge are negotiable, and you can also adjust the number of stitches in between the double decreases.

There is only one official option for Clue #4. If you want to add more repeat of clue #3 or extend clue #4, you can, but that’s at your discretion and I can’t help you out with that.

These instructions are for the standard edging. This is it! The final clue. There’s nothing else coming at you until the premium version of the pattern is released (includes row-by-row and section stitch counts not available in the KAL).

Assistance with off stitch counts
If you don’t have 330 stitches, here’s my advice (pick one or multiple):
  • Increase/decrease to get 330 on the first row (you’re not adding new stitches at this point anymore)
  • If you’re off by only a few stitches (some people have 328) you will be AOK (see below)
  • Adjust the stitch pattern slightly: it’s a multiple of 12 + 3 edge stitches on each side (so 12 + 6).
Tips for adjusting the edging to work with your stitch count

If you have an odd number of stitches, simply k2tog at the beginning or end of your row or increase 1 (depending on your stitch count). Once you have an even number of stitches, use the info below to help you out.

  • If you have 328 stitches, you would work: k2, (pattern) 27x, k2.
  • If you have 326 stitches, you’ll need to increase 2 (I’d recommend increasing in the pattern the first and last time it is worked rather than kfb’ing the border stitches or something).
  • If you have more than 330 add extra stitches along the edging before and after the pattern unless you are closer to another multiple of 12.
  • If you have less than 330, the next multiple for 12 stitches is 312 (12×26). Meaning if you have 320 (320-312=8 extra), you could work k4 before the pattern and k4 after (please note that this includes the 2 border stitches!).