Yvaine is a triangular shawl, which is knit from the top to the bottom point with increases on every right side row. I was able to knit the shawl using the row combinations below using one ball of Handmaiden Fine Yarns Casbah Sock in Stardust – which, coincidentally, I wouldn’t recommend. See that blub in the garter stitch section? That’s just one of six knots that plagued my skein.

It’s a very simple construction: garter stitch border, 3 panels of seed stitch, and ending in garter stitch. I suppose you could just use garter stitch throughout, but I opted for seed stitch to give it a slightly more subtle texture than garter stitch usually provides. I blocked my shawl, and it nearly doubled in size. Blocking is, of course, optional with a project like this, but I’d recommend it.

This is a great portable project. It was one of those things I could just put down and do whatever, whenever. I finished it rather quickly, considering its size. Finished measurements after block were 45″ wingspan, and 20″ from cast on edge to bottom tip.

This shawl is named after Yvaine, the star from Neil Gaiman’s novel Stardust. I felt it was an appropriate name for the pattern.

Needle size: US #8, 5.00mm

Yarn: One skein Hand Maiden Fine Yarns Casbah Sock (355 yds, 115g per skein), shown in Stardust.

Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
M1L – make 1 left (insert left hand needle into the bar running between stitches from front to back, k through the back loop)
M1R – make 1 right (insert left hand needle into the bar running between stitches from back to front, k)
sd st – seed stitch
st st – stocking stitch
pm – place marker
slm – slip marker
m – marker

Pattern notes: After the set up rows, the first two and last two stitches of every row are knit. I’ve written this out in the “general idea” section… but after that, you just need to remember to do it yourself.

Set up rows
Cast on 3 sts. K 6 rows. Pick up 3 sts from the long garter stitch edge, followed by 3 sts from the cast on edge. 9 sts total.

The general idea – I’ve written out the first few rows, and then it’s all in pattern blocks. I place a marker on either side of the center stitch, but you’re welcome to use your own method of indicating the center.
Row 1 (RS): k2, M1L, k2, M1L, pm, k1, pm, M1R, k2, M1R, k2
Row 2 (WS): k2, p to m, slm, p1, slm to last 2 sts, k2
Row 3: k2, M1L, k to m, M1L, slm, k1, slm, M1R, k to last 2 sts, M1R, k2
Row 4: k2, p to m, slm, p1, slm, p to last 2 sts, k2
Repeat rows 3 and 4 for all of your increasing needs.

When increasing in sd st, remember to keep the newly increased stitches in pattern. This means, on a WS row, you will need to pay close attention to your first stitch (after the garter edging) and your first stitch after slipping the second marker.

Pattern blocks
The shawl I knit has the following pattern sequence:
22 rows st st
8 rows sd st
14 rows st st
4 rows sd st
16 rows st st
6 rows sd st
16 rows st st
rem rows worked in garter stitch until no yarn remains (for me, this was 15 garter ridges, 30 rows)

End with a RS row
Begin BO on WS row. I used an SSK bind off, which works like this: slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, insert the left hand needle into the two stitches, knit. Slip 1 knitwise, insert left hand needle into the two stitches, knit. Continue until only one stitch remains.